Makeup Myths – Complexion
- Your Forehead
- Your Wrist
- Your Vein Color
Your foundation shade should match YOUR NECK.
The skin on our face and hands are exposed to far more environmental stress (UV damage, weather conditions, pollution, etc.) than any other parts of our body. Because of this, they tend to be slightly different in color (depth or tone) and do not always match our neck or the rest of our body.
The best place to test for correct foundation shade is on the neck, just below the jawline. Once you find a shade that matches the color depth and undertone of the neck, move that color up, into the face.
If you’ve chosen the correct foundation shade, there should be no visible demarcation and it should blend seamlessly with the adjoining skin that is not made up.
The only way to effectively deepen your skin-tone with makeup is to cover every exposed area of your body (face, neck, ears, hands, etc.) so it all matches. This is one of the very few situations when a spray-on or self-tanner would be a much smarter solution, although I REALLY dislike the fake-baked orange color of self-tanners (hear that Donald?).
To simulate a tan appearance, use a powder or cream bronzer and apply it at the high points of your face (along with the hairline, tops of cheeks, bridge of the nose, chin, etc.). These are the areas of the face that the sun hits first, naturally. I prefer a cream bronzer because it provides a more skin-like appearance. Milk Makeup Matte Bronzer or Charlotte Tilbury Beach Stick provides a natural looking temporary sun-kissed glow.
A lighter color will not hide the darkness, it will accentuate it and make it look worse. To disguise under-eye darkness effectively, your concealer should be an EXACT match in depth to your skin-tone (not lighter or darker). If you want to highlight the undereye area, do it after you’ve effectively covered the darkness.
If the under-eye darkness is the result of chronic discoloration (not fatigue), you’ll want to use a color corrector to neutralize it (ex; yellow-orange colors neutralize violet-blue tones). My Color Correction Concealer post offers more in-depth info on this topic.
EXTRA CREDIT – ‘Color Correction‘ concealers can be used to address many skin discolorations (rosacea, hormonal masking, melasma, etc).
The technical term for contouring is shading, which perfectly explains it’s purpose. When an object is shaded, it appears as if the light source had been removed and the area falls into shadow. These areas now look as if they were in the shade. When a painter creates a shade, it is the mixture of hue (color in its pure form) and black.
As a pro makeup artist, it’s up to you to create a personalized contour color for each face and this is my Never-Fail Formula…
- Begin with a foundation 3 shades deeper, with the same undertone as the individual’s skin.
- Add the tiniest bit of pure black pigment (black iron oxide) in liquid or cream.
BOOM – perfect personalized contour color!
IMPORTANT: The deeper foundation shade MUST be the same undertone as the skin to achieve the perfect contour color.
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